Remote Worker’s Guide - Lisbon

written by 
Anthony Holiday
City Guides
Remote Work

The first city I travelled to when starting to work remotely was Lisbon, what a choice.

Lisbon has everything you need when working remotely. A vibrant community, decent food and beverage, European charm, rich cultural history, as well as close to some of the best surf waves on the planet.

It’s no wonder that Lisbon has become a remote work hotspot.

In this guide I’ll share with you everything I learned about living in Lisbon as a remote worker, where to eat, where to work, and things to do in and around the city.

Table of Contents

  1. Where to Live
  2. Where to Work
  3. Services
  4. Food
  5. Coffee
  6. Things to Do
  7. Additional Resources

Where to Live

Lisbon is built on a hillside along the Tagus River (Rio Tejo) which opens into the Atlantic Ocean.

The neighbourhoods aren’t very big geographically, but the culture and community of each one make up for it.

I’ve grouped the best areas to stay based on whether you’ll be in Lisbon for a short stop, or a longer stay.

Short Stay

Principe Real

Principe Real street Lisbon Portugal

Principe Real is located west of Bairro Alto but still on the hill, it’s not uncommon to have unobstructed views of the 25 de Abril Bridge.

Principe Real is full of local eateries, wine bars, and cafes, and has a local feel and charm to the streets.

It’s the best spot in the city for feeling like you’re in a neighbourhood, but in the middle of everything.

Chiado

Chiado Lisbon Portugal during Christmas

Chiado is a boujee neighbourhood in the heart of the city. Easy access to everything being right in the center, once you’re off the main street, Rue Garrett it’s quieter and has more charm to it.

A lot of old buildings with new renovations are located in Chiado. If you can afford it it’s a great spot to stay for your first time in Lisbon.

Alfama

Alfama, Lisbon, Portugal

Alfama has similarities to Principe Real with steep streets, endless restaurants, wine bars, and cafes, however it does feel a bit more local once off the main streets.

I love the easy access to 3 amazing Miradouros, Santa Luzia, Graca, and Senhora de Monte. Any of them are great for sunset.

Baixa

Baixa side street in Lisbon Portugal

The most touristy spot in Lisbon, Baixa is the square neighbourhood that runs from Praca do Comercio to Martim Moniz.

If you’re staying in Lisbon long-term I would pick a different neighbourhood to live in for the sole reason of being around tourists all the time, and also being treated like one.

But Baixa does have its benefits like being close to the centre, the water, and you’re an easy walk up to Alfama if you’re looking for some views.

Anjos

A sleeper on this list, Anjos is a small hillside located on the north side of Miradouro Senhora de Monte.

My feeling of the neighbourhood was that it wasn’t quite ready to be filled with tourists yet (which is what I loved about it), but within a few years of development and a notable restaurants it would be.

I really liked Anjos, and would consider living there the next time I’m in Lisbon.

Long Stay

Estrela

Basilica da Estrela in Lisbon Portugal

Estrela, the Portuguese word for ‘star’. My favourite neighbourhood in Lisbon. The parish Estrela was created in 2012, merging the neighbourhoods of Lapa, Prazeres, and Santos. It’s my favourite neighbourhood in Lisbon due to being close to the centre of Lisbon but not as tracked as the more central neighbourhoods.

The overall feeling in Estrela is ‘old Portuguese money’. It has great restaurants, close to Campo de Ourique if you want to visit a more lively area, and of course jardim da Estrela (the best park in Lisbon).

Campo de Ourique

Campo de Ourique street

Just up the hill from Estrela, Campo de Ourique is the ‘French’ area of Lisbon. Vibrant with lots of restaurants, wine and cheese shops, the Mercado do Campo de Ourique, and all the amenities you need in one neighbourhood. I was told this was the choice neighbourhood for many Portuguese until around 10 years ago when expats started to move in. I would live in Campo de Ourique if Estrela is too quiet for you, however they border each other so it’s easy to visit either one.

Santos

Santos Lisbon Portugal street

Down the hill from Estrela towards the water you’ll eventually come to Santos. A popular area for young Portuguese or remote workers, there’s lots of cafes, bars, and restaurants. Santos square is lively with young Portuguese people Wednesday - Sunday nights.

Saldanha

Feels like ‘modern’ Lisbon. Saldanha is up the hill to the northeast from Marques de Pombal. There’s a lot of business traffic in this area, but on the side streets you will find beautiful residential buildings, usually a lot taller in height that the rest of Lisbon. If you’re looking for the vibrancy of a ‘downtown’ area but without as many tourists as Baixa/Chiado area, Saldanha is a great neighbourhood to stay in.

Pena

Jardim da Torel Lisbon

What used to be a hidden gem and a semi ‘cross-section’ between a few more popular areas, Pena has become more and more trafficked with tourists the last few years. Pena sits atop a hill between Martim Moniz and Avenida de Liberdade. It’s still a worthy neighbourhood to live in because of your close proximity to other busy neighbourhoods but remaining more sleepy, with a strong local charm. There’s a great park in the centre, Campo dos Mártires da Pátria, and also a great viewpoint from jardim de Torel.

How to find a place to live

Lisbon has become harder to find accommodation due to the influx of remote workers in the last 5 years.

If you’re staying 6+ months it’s easier because landlords are more likely to sign a lease with you, but it’s not impossible if you’re going to stay for less.

The best ways I’ve found to find long term accommodation (6-12+ months) is using Idealista. For short term, Airbnb and subletting via Facebook groups.

Airbnb

I always recommend using Airbnb if it’s your budget for the following reasons:

  • No deposits
  • Pay using your credit card for extra travel points and insurance
  • AirCover insurance
  • Most places are self check-in, easy for arriving on late flights or not having to wait around for landlord/agency to come and do a walkthrough, bring the contract/sign papers, etc.

Most of the time you get what you pay for, have responsive hosts, check-in/out on your own time, and no deposits or random checkout fees.

Facebook Groups

Join the short term rentals group for Lisbon on Facebook.

I met tons of people who found a place to live via this group. It’s competitive, but not hard to stand out if you put in the effort to make a good post.

Long-term rentals

Idealista is like the Craigslist for Portugal and Spain. Keep in mind that 99% of the time when you find an apartment using idealista, it will be a 6-12 month lease.

Hostels/Coliving

The first trip I made to Lisbon, I lived at Home Hostel in Baixa.

Hear me out. I understand that coliving or living in a hostel isn’t for everyone, but it was the best decision I made when I was in Portugal.

One of the reasons I was initially hesitant about working remotely halfway around the world was because of the loneliness the can come with it. Staying in a hostel or coliving space is a great way to test out a community and break the barrier of getting to know people who are doing the same thing as you.

Here’s a list of coliving spaces I’ve heard to be good:

Conclusion

While finding a place to live in Lisbon can be more challenging than in somewhere like Southeast Asia, it’s not difficult with a.l few days work.

If you can afford it, Airbnb is the way to go followed by subletting via Facebook groups. If you’re looking for something more long term then go with idealista.

Where to work

As usual when I move to a new city for longer term, I make myself a home office and spend most of my time working at home.

That said, I do enjoy going to cafes once in awhile and get invited by friends to work at their cowork spaces from time to time. Based on that scenario, these are my recommendations for places to work in Lisbon.

Coffee Shops

Lisbon has fairly good coffee shops, both for coffee and working.

Some are better than others in terms of wifi speed and comfortability but one common theme is it’s hard to find space due to so many people working online.

Check out the ‘Coffee Shops to Work at’ section below for ones that I recommend and frequented often. They all have fast reliable wifi (except where noted), good sized tables, and delicious coffee.

Cowork Spaces

Cowork spaces that I have worked at or come most recommended to me.

Libraries

I have found certain libraries in Lisbon great for working in. Usually there’s tons of space at them, and they’re generally only used by locals or longterm expats.

Alcantara Library Lisbon Portugal

Services

When getting used to a new living environment, the small hurdles can sometimes present the biggest questions.

  • Where do I get a SIM card?
  • Where do I buy groceries?
  • How do I get around?

This section is about all the day-to-day operations that are easy to forget when you’re at home in an environment that you’re familiar with.

SIM Cards

  • Vodafone - I used Vodafone and had nothing but good service. If you’re not going to get a contract plan, the app is in English which makes it much easier to pay bills.
  • NOS
  • MEO

Where should I buy a SIM card?

  • Any phone provider location. I got mine from the Vodafone in Amoreiras, excellent customer service with clear explanations for their plans.

Apps to Download

I would recommend downloading the following apps when you get to Lisbon. They should all be available on your local app store.

Transportation

  • Bolt
  • Uber
  • Bird
  • Lime
  • Omio

Food

  • Bolt Food

  • Uber Eats - food delivery

  • Glovo

  • TheFork

  • TooGoodToGo

  • GuideMichelin

    • Lisbon is home to a large selection of Michelin Star and Bib Gourmand restaurants.
    • Whenever you’re unsure of what to eat for dinner, check this app for inspiration. They have restaurants of all budgets.

Day to day

  • Amazon - ordering anything you can’t find locally
  • Glovo - the ‘ordering app’ in Portugal. Food and groceries.

Communcation

  • WhatsApp

    • The global chat app default. Used for messaging, pretty widely used amongst Thai people and businesses.

Banking

  • Wise

    • Cheapest way to do international money transfers and foreign exchange
    • If you decide to go the route of not using Airbnb for your housing, this is a good way to send and receive your deposit or rent.

Transportation

  • Apps- Bolt/Uber - pretty reasonable when used for long distances.
  • Metro - easy to get anywhere in the city or to the airport
  • Bus - anything you can’t get to by metro.
  • Tram - rarely will it be the best way to get around, but when it is, do it! Worth it for the experience alone.
  • Bird/Lime scooter
  • Sea bus

Where to buy food

Grocery Stores

  • Pingo Doce - best overall
  • Continente - not as good as Pingo Doce, but fine.
  • Auchan - the big one in Amoreiras has the best selection. Worth a trip to stock up.
  • Celeiro - Organic grocery store, I think it’s owned by Continente.
  • Supermercado Chen - Chinese grocery store, if you need good Asian import groceries. The one in Martim Moniz is fairly good, there’s a bigger one by the airport.
  • woori mercado coreano - Korean grocery store
  • Aldi - Sometimes has gems that you can’t find elsewhere.
  • Supermercado El Corte Inglés - Aweome grocery store in the basement of El Corte Inglés

Supermercado Chen Lisbon Portugal

Vitamins & Supplements

  • iHerb - Always cheaper, and the better American versions of vitamins.

Markets

Principe Real Farmer's Market Lisbon Portugal

Farmer's Market Lisbon Portugal Veggies

Mercado de Campo de Ourique Lisbon Portugal

Cheese Shops

Queijaria Francesa Maître Renard cheese shop in Campo de Ourique

Pharmacy/Drug Stores

  • There’s no definitive brand, but they all provide relatively the same products.
  • Look for the green cross.

General Stores

  • Amoreiras Auchan
  • Normal - multiple locations
  • FNAC - anything electronics related.

Malls

  • Colombo Shopping Centre - the biggest mall in Portugal. Mid-tier stores. Across from Benfica stadium.
  • El Cortes Ingles - Massive department store. Great grocery store in the basement, and good restaurants on the roof too.
  • Amoreiras - Good higher-end mall. Best food court. Worth going to the Auchan for groceries.
  • Armazéns do Chiado - Tourist mall in the centre of Lisbon.
  • Centro Vasco da Gama - The mall out at Oriente. Not really worth it unless you’re going to check out Oriente for the day.

Colombo Mall at Christmas in Lisbon Portugal

Food & Drink

The Best List

The short list of the places I wouldn’t miss while visiting Lisbon.

  • Vino Vero - My favourite wine bar in Lisbon
  • Insaciável - 2nd favourite wine bar
  • Marquise da Mobler - Best French bakery in Lisbon. The suisse 🤌🤌🤌.
  • Park Rooftop - drinks and cocktails are meh, but the rooftop view is what makes it worth it.
  • Coyo Taco Príncipe Real - best Mexican food in the city
  • Mercado Oriental Martim Moniz - While it might not be the standard you’re used to if you live in a city with good Asian food (Vancouver, SF, LA, NYC), it’s pretty good for what you’ll find in Europe. The spicy Chinese noodles on the first floor are my go to.
  • Panda Cantina - Best (Chinese) ramen in the city (I go to the one in Amoreiras as the others are tight for space)
  • Ajitama - Best (Japanese) ramen in the city
  • Tagide - Delicious, affordable Michelin Star, with a view. Need I say more?
  • A Cultura Do Hambúrguer - I didn’t come to Lisbon thinking I would find one of the best burgers I’ve ever had, but seriously their burgers are in my top 3 all time. Also happy hour is half off cocktails. Yes it’s better than Burger Champ, A100, and Stack Burger.
  • Valdo Gatti Pizza Bio - best pizza I found in Lisbon.
  • da Prata 52 - Best high-end Portuguese. One of the best dining experiences of my life. Do it with wine pairings and let the waiter take care of you.
  • Nannarella/Niva - Best ice cream depending on flavour.
  • Moona Chicken - Korean fried chicken
  • Mirari - great outdoor food court with events

Restaurants

A general list of my favourite restaurants in Lisbon. All types of cuisine, minus Portuguese cuisine.

Spicy noodles at Mercado de Oriental in Martim Moniz

Valdo Gatti pizza Lisbon

Burgers

Best:

Also great:

Worth a visit:

Street Smash Burger Lisbon Portugal

Pizza

Best:

Worth a visit:

Portuguese

Desserts

Pastel de Nata from Manteigaria in Lisbon

Bakeries

Best:

Also great:

Worth a visit:

  • Padaria de Portuguesa - multiple locations

Gleba Campo de Ourique

Pain Suisse from Marquise

Wine Bars

Best:

Also great:

Worth a visit:

Vino Vero Lisbon Portugal

Black Sheep Lisbon

Cool Bars

Cocktail Bars

Rooftop Bars

Worth skipping

  • ByTheWine - Extremely over rated. Been a few times and the service was no bueno.
  • Time Out Market Lisboa - Too busy, too overpriced. The restaurants are mostly ‘Lisbons Greatest Hits’. If you visit the locations of these spots throughout Lisbon, it’s cheaper, and likely to be more enjoyable.

Timeout Market Lisbon

Coffee

Coffee Shops to work at

Everyone has their own preferences for cafes to work at, these have been my go-to’s whenever I feel like working outside the house. In order:

Best:

Also great:

Worth a visit:

Cool Coffee Shops

Cafes that aren’t great for working, but great for having a cup of joe.

Best:

Also great:

Worth a visit:

Things to Do

Daytrips

  • Estoril/Cascais - a tourist town at the end of the western train line from Lisbon, Cascais is an affluent seaside village. Great to explore for a day or weekend, but might be too relaxed to spend more time than that. Get off the train at Estoril and walk to Cascais.
  • Sintra - Famous for the pastel coloured Palace de Peña, Sintra is very busy and crowded with tourists who want to explore the palace and surrounding estate. Still absolutely worth a visit for a day or weekend.
  • Nazaré - Home of some of the biggest waves in the world.

Cascais Portugal

Palace de Pena in Sintra

Nazare Portugal

Areas

  • LXFactory - Old industrial warehouses along the waterfront converted into a trendy shopping and eating district. Great for boutique shopping and patio restaurants.
  • Time Out Market Lisboa - Overrated but good for a visit if you’re in the area, I wouldn’t make a special trip for it.
  • Belém Tower - A historic Lisbon landmark along the water. Worth making a trip to go here and eat at Pasteis de Belem.
  • Miradouro do Rio Tejo - Cais 1929 - best spot to watch sunset from the water on the Lisbon side.
  • Praça do Comércio - Famous square at the foot of Baixa.
  • Jardim do Rio - best spot to watch sunset from the water on the Almada side.

Parks

Best:

Also great:

Worth a visit:

Nightlife

  • Bairro Alto - young party streets. A select few good restaurants as well.
  • Pink Street - whatever the dirty party street in your hometown is, this is the Lisbon version.
  • Santos Square - local Portuguese party area
  • Park - best rooftop bar in Lisbon for a view, also good for meeting people.
  • Machimbombo - pink bar across from Park, the owner is an absolute gen. Live vinyl DJs on the weekends usually.

Live Music

Football Games

Additional Recommended Resources

© Anthony Holiday, 2024 |
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